Saturday, April 12, 2008


You can see we had to pull the engine to grind the bilge! Oil pan was sitting on bilge not allowing the motor mounts to "touch" the stringers. Alignment was impossible. We cut 1" lead and epoxy to make a "valley" for the oil pan of our Isuzu diesel. When we hauled out we had to completely rebuild the stern bearing. The whole bearing was broken out of the deadwood due to badly aligned shaft. Replaced shaft and prop, new coupling. Water tank tops were formica table tops upside down and leaking so bad the PO said he only filled them for 7 minutes at a time. I replaced with plexiglas so I could see and Annie re-epoxied them as they were full of blisters. I cut a piece of 100 % rubber as a complete gasket and put bolts on 4" centers to hold. I want to be able to open them up and clean as needed.
Notice the large "stabilizing fin" mounted aft the keep forward of the rudder. This was another Bernie Kashen design to stabilize the boat in a large following sea. Seems these boats have a rather faaaaaaaast helm and tend to broach while racing downwind as most narrow/deep draft boats have as opposed to the "fat & Flat" boats that have to motor up wind and "slide" down wind. To each his/her own. :-)
We installed the biggest submersible bilge pump Rule made, about 3500 gal per hr. with a 1" hose to a check valve almost to the loop under the deck. I wanted water over the check valve to try and eliminate the "sucking" of air and releasing water back into bilge. Better than none as it use to drain over 8' of hose back to the bilge every time it went off which was all the time due to the large amount of water coming back. We have a hand operated diaphragm pump for a back up as well as a portable double diaphragm gusher with 20' of hose on each end for passing off to another boat or any compartment.

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